Miss Van
• McDonald suggest
that women come to
the subculture laden
with the baggage of
gender in that her
physicality
(her looks)
and her sexuality will
be commented on
critically in a way that
male writers do not
experience
Swoon (US)
• “In the meantime
there was a lot of
attention coming my
way for being female,
and it just made me
feel alienated and
objectified, not to
mention patronized.
‘Look at what girls
can do-aren’t they
cute?’ To hell with
that shit. I don’t want
it.”
Angela Mc Robbie and Jenny
Garber
• Girl subcultures may
have become more
invisible because the
very term ‘subculture’
has acquired such
strong masculine
overtones (1977)
Motorbike girl
• Brigitte Bardot 1960’s
• Suggests sexual
deviance which is a
fantasy not reflective
of most conventional
real life femininity at
the time
Hells Angels
• Inrockerandmotorbike
culture girls usually rode
pillion
• Wills1978:girlsdidnot
enter into the
cameraderie, competion
and knowledge of the
machine
Inthissubculturewomen
were either girlfriend of..
Or ‘mama’ figure
Mod girl
• Mod culture springs
from working class
teenage
consumerism in the
1960’s in the UK
• Teenage girls worked
in cities in service
industries for
example, or in
clothing shops where
they are encouraged
to model the boutique
clothing
Quadrophenia (1979)
Hebdige outlines the
hierarchies within the
mod subculture
where “the ‘faces’ or
‘stylists’ who made up
the original coterie
were defined against
the unimaginative
majority...who were
accused of trivialising
the mod style”
Hippy girl
• Subculture arises
through universities
of the late 60’s and
early 70’s
• Middle class girl
therefore has the
space to explore
subculture for longer
before family etc.
• Space for leisure
without work:
encourages ‘personal
expression’
Riot Grrrl- mid 1990’s onwards
• Underground punk
movement based in
Washington DC,
Olympia, Portland,
Oregon and the
greater Pacific
Northwest
Bands
• Bikini Kill, Bratmobil,
Excuse 17, Heavens
to Betsy, Fifth
Column, Calamity
Jane, Huggy Bear,
Adickdid, Emily's
Sassy Lime, The
Frumpies, The
Butchies, Sleater-
Kinney, Bangs and
also queercore like
Team Dresch
Cold Cold Hearts, side project band of Allison Wolfe of riot
grrrl band Bratmobile, playing 'Sorry Yer Band Sux' live at
Black Cat, Washington, D.C. 3/7/97
The Raincoats, Poly
Styrene, LiLiPUT,
The Slits, The
Runaways/Joan Jett,
Patti Smith, Chrissie
Hynde, Exene
Cervenka, Siouxsie
Sioux, Lydia Lunch,
Kim Gordon, Neo
Boys, Chalk Circle,
Ut, Bush Tetras,
Frightwig, Anti-Scrunti
Faction, Scrawl
Riot Grrl???
• Mount Pleasant Race
Riots in 1991
• Bratmobile member
Jen Smith (later of
Rastro! and The
Quails), reacted to
the violence by
prophetically writing
in a letter to Allison
Wolfe: "This
summer's going to be
a girl riot."
Wolfe and Molly
Neuman collaborated
with Kathleen Hanna
and Tobi Vail to
create a new zine
and called it Riot
Grrrl, combining the
"riot" with an oft-used
phrase that first
appeared in Vail's
fanzine Jigsaw
"Revolution Grrrl
Style Now”. Riot grrrls
What makes this a true
subculture?
• Zines revived from
1970’s DIY punk ethic
• In turn this was
influenced by posters
and graphic design
from the Dadaists in
the 1920’s 30’s
• Women self-
publishing their own
music
Raoul Hausmann- Dada
• ABCD Self-portrait
(1923-24)
• “Like the author of the
the surrealist collage
typically juxtaposes
two apparently
incompatible realities”
(Hebdige: 1979)
Media attention turns to Grunge
scene
• Courtney Love and
Hole
• Style without the
subculture
• Distorts even further
as the 90’s continue
into the more more
media friendly Spice
Girls use of phrase
“Girl Power”
Spice Girls
• Band styling presents
a set of visual ‘types’
that are easily
consumable by the
target audience
• There is no
empowerment for
young women as
there is nothing but
the reduction of
young women to
cartoon
representations
Dick Hebdige Subculture: The
meaning of Style
• “Subcultures
represent ‘noise’ (as
opposed to sound):
interference in the
orderly sequence
which leads from real
events and
phenomena to their
representation in the
media.”
• Offence caused by
lyrics and behaviour
is important as it
The commodity form
• Subcultural signs like
dress styles and
music are turned into
mass produced
objects
• Eg: clothing which is
ripped as an anarchic
anti-fashion
statement becomes
mass produced with
rips as part of the
design
• Womens Own 1977 runs a feature on “Punks and Mothers”, smiling, reclining next to the family pool etc.
• Non political threat that ultimately will not disturb traditional values
• Hebdige suggests
that the press set up
this perceived threat
as away of
neutralising
something that could
not be conceived by
the petit-bourgeois
therefore has to be
‘domesticated
Zandra Rhodes 9ct White Gold
Diamond Safety Pin Brooch
• Although punk seems
to challenge
eventually and
surprisingly quickly it
goes
mainstream/high end
and is turned into “To
shock chic” which
marks the end of the
movement as a
subculture.
21st century demonisation
• “Style in particular
provokes a double
response (in the
media): it is
alternately
celebrated (in the
fashion page) and
ridiculed or reviled (in
those articles which
define subcultures as
social problems)”
Bricolage: Edwardian Style-
Saville Row-Teddy Boy